Samplers

One of the earliest references to a Sampler is in an account book of Queen Elizabeth of York in 1502 where there is an entry "Linnyn cloth for a sampler." Other references exist to a plain or colored thread on linen or drawn-thread work. In Edward VI inventory of 1552 there is a mention to "a sampler or a set of patterns worked in Normandy canvas with green and black silks." These early inventory entries reflect their high value.

Samplers probably originate in the 15th century as a way of recording stitches, but it did not evolve into a form we recognize until the 17th century. Samplers were not just ornamental. Although Caxton was printing in England from 1477, there were no printed stitch designs to follow. Recording the stitches was important as hand embellishment was one of the few ways to decorate fabric.

Patterns were copied, drawn or passed on by word of mouth. Hence they often became distorted. an example of this is the pattern known as 'Boxers' which probably evolved from an Ottoman flower border design. Sometimes interpreted as a pair of lovers exchanging gifts with the main figure offering a branch or flower. Eventually the female figure became a tree or bush developing into formal floral motifs.

Samplers became a source of decorative patterns. A needlewoman would learn various stitches and record favourite motifs and patterns. 16th century samplers were stitched at random with patterns in no particular order. The format became progressively more conventional and by the 17th century Samplers were worked by young girls, named and dated. After stitching their Samplers girls would graduate onto pictures, book covers,pillows, boxes and mirror frames in which the 17th century proliferated.

Long narrow band samplers were stitched in horizontal rows. Although samplers with random stitching and spot motifs continued to be worked, various elements were incorporated, cut-work borders, horizontal lines of lace like embroideries and decorative motifs worked in natural thread and embroidery silk or sometimes beadwork.

In Britain Ladies magazine founded in 1749 published many design supplements. 1776 suggests a map of England for consideration of ladies wishing to study Geography, "It should be executed in needlepoint on canvas, which may afterwards be applied to the purpose of a fire screen or framed to ornament a room."

Map Samplers and Darning Samplers introduced from Holland were most commonly cross-stitched, worked on a worsted Tammy cloth , with pious text made by a child as testament to her precious skill.