Toiles

A less costly alternative to woven tapestry, silks and chintzes were printed cottons, linens and calicos. English and Irish floral prints began as imitations of the Indian printed textiles. The Irish printed onto traditional Irish linen. The designs evolved from the 'tree of life' on the chintzes and palathoes to westernised botanical motif, gradually they became figurative vignettes of pastoral scenes in an all over repeat.

In 1762 copper plate printing was introduced this gave the fabric the quality and detail of fine etchings and made even more intricate repeats possible. Many of the Indian textiles were monochrome so the Europeans imitations were printed in one color. The popularity of chintzes had all but ruined the French textile industry so it was not until the middle of the 18th century that the French began to print similar textiles. Christophe Oberkampf's factory at Jouy highly successful at printing monochrome cotton linen and calicos. The term 'Toile de Jouy' has become the generic name for all such printed textiles. Fine Toiles were also printed at Nantes, notably floral prints, and other centres throughout Europe.

Printing technology made it possible for Toiles to be printed in quantity with large copper rollers and advances in dying, fast dyes of green and 'madder' red produced a variety of shades although other colors were used. Printing in monochrome was efficient and commercial. Fashion and fantasy are reflected in the designs. Toiles can be found with chinioserie, bucolic, commemorative, mythical, neo-classical, even erotic themes. Significant developments of the 18th century can be traced through these designs. The 'New World', industrialisation, architecture and 'The French Revolution' are all depicted in the printed Toiles.

The relatively inexpensive but desirable fabrics were used across provincial France as bed hangings and furnishings. Precious excess fabric and pieces cut from worn hangings would make pillows, each repeat complete in itself, with delicately detailed draughtsmanship.